Disclaimer

This blog is a representation of me, and my opinions and adventures, and it does not reflect any position of the Peace Corps or the United States Government.

December 27, 2011

The Definition of Hospitality, Ukrainian Style

On months as busy as December has been for me, it is hard to know where to start when I want to tell my story. And even when I do come up with a great introduction, it's hard to know exactly how much to put into the blogs- me being a generally rambling and over enthusiastic person who loves to write. Which, for all of you who already read my blog, is pretty obvious. So seeing that I need to talk about my getting stuck in Kiev for a few days, traveling adventures (for both Lviv/Ivano-Frankivsk and Lubny/Poltava) AND Christmas already, I figure I will start an entry now before New Year's adds even more for me to ramble about.

And without further ado:

Kiev. Wow, just saying the city's name gives me shudders for remembering what that week was. For starters, I was just supposed to be going to the office for a DAY. Just ONE day. Take the overnight train in, bring a lunch, go to the doctors- ear infection and yup, you guessed it, knee problems. Well and a few minor other things (as part of an inside joke I want to mention that "No, it was not blood poisioning" but in saying that I should also mention that it was strictly a joke and I did not have blood poisoning- just a bruise of sorts). Anyways, I get to Kiev at 6 a.m. after leaving Rivne at 10 p.m. so while waiting for the doc I eat the lunch I packed (gotta be cheap ya know), raid the PC library and free box (Around the World in 80 Days and Mansfield Park) and then just spend sometime socializing with the PCVs in the office. Then I go upstairs (Why did they think putting the medical office on the 4th floor was a good idea??) for appointment number one. Then, in the interest of being thorough, it is decided that I need to see specialists. Which means setting up appointments in local offices. Which means additional days in Kiev. So two more appointments on Tuesday. And the last on Thursday. So while I thought I over-packed by bringing my toothbrush and extra food, it seems that I should have also brought change of clothes. After an overnight train, and then two nights and three days in the same clothes let's just say I started to re-define the word "hot mess." And by the time I finally was able to return to Rivne (and first on the to-do list then was a full scrub-down to raw skin shower and clean clothes)the results were: Well, we (PCMO) will send pictures to DC for consultation, I have a minor ear infection, and let's *try* some physical therapy for your knee. Or in my words: a whole lot of fluff. But we will see what happens, and at the very least, my ear infection is cleared up.

So I finally get back to Rivne Wednesday night (wait, wasn't I only supposed to be gone on Monday?) and spend Thursday at the office calling people to reschedule meetings I had missed while in Kiev. Then Wednesday night I get to spend the evening packing for a trip to Ivano-Frankivsk (leaving by bus 7:30 a.m. and arriving 3 p.m.). I was supposed to be meeting with one of the other organizations I work with, for some English grant consultations, following up on camp plans, getting signatures and getting ready for the new projects that would open up in January. And since I would be down in that region, spend the following weekend with a cluster-mate who lives down there- both for some business/work related projects and some socializing with good friends.

And lest this plan seem to easy and well laid-out, let me divulge what happened when I arrived. "Amanda, change of plans. Instead of working, we are going to Lviv to work on a project with the orphanage." Well, hey, I can so live with that change. Working with a bunch of kids and doing something for an awesome project is something I will always say yes to. Mind you, this means that I didn't get any of the grant stuff covered, and very unfortunately was not able to meet with my friends for dinner, I can't say that it was a wasted trip. I had a bunch of 11 year old boys try to teach me a Ukrainian song and I taught them how to say "I am a soccer player" (and I intentionally taught them to say soccer rather than football player, after all, I am an American regardless of how many potatoes I eat).

Finally, home on Saturday night- this time for a real chunk of time! No plans to leave until Friday night- going out East to Poltava Oblast for Christmas! Nothing much special for the week in between, although, I did get to meet the new PCV in our city- it's hard to believe that I have already been here long enough for there to be new volunteers! But, I guess it has been nine months! Then as always I have my English lessons on Friday at the office- we learned "Let It Snow" in honor of the Christmas holidays. Then, hurry home to throw a weekend bag together and hop on the bus to Zdulbooniv for a direct train to Poltava region.

And of course, this is where my life gets interesting (part two thousand). I am not super familiar with this particular bus route, so of course, I miss the stop. And I don't realize I miss the stop until everybody else gets off the bus and the driver turns around to look at me. Great. OK. So I ask him about how to get to the train station and explain my situation. He sits there for a minute, staring at me like the ridiculous foreigner that I am, and then asks what time I need to be at the train station. After I answer, he looks at me and tells me, "No worries, I will get you there in 15 minutes." Makes my life pretty easy then. But it even gets better. He calls his buddy on the phone and has him get on the bus, and when we get to the train station he tells his friend about my situation, and then points me out. So his friend then grabs my bag and ticket (I should be nervous at this point) and starts walking with me. And of course this means he starts asking questions (at first in Russian, конечно. But he realizes that if he wants me to understand. And then we start talking about things- how do I like Ukraine, am I guest, and that he things it is awesome that I am volunteering here for two years and that I am learning Ukrainian. Then he personally escorts me to my train, including the wagon that I need to be on, and wishes me great travels. A pretty awesome way to start off the Christmas weekend!

Now on the train and safely ensconced in my bunk I make friends with the older guys sitting around me- who speak some English, live in Poland half the year, swear I have Ukrainian blood in my family, and make sure that I get all my blankets and bedding set up correctly ("Make blankets як у мене) and they even go so far as to chastise the screaming toddler in the next bunk- "Be quiet, you will wake the American girl!" And if this wasn't fun enough, let's add that the guy in the berth across from mine then told me about how to make the best vareneky and all about the history of this particular food. Love it.

Finally getting to Poltava, I spend the morning slipping and sliding on two inch thick ice sheets that were originally something like sidewalks, and a quick breakfast of a tasty omelet (made with horse meat sausage) and off to the city to meet with all the volunteers of the region. Spent Christmas eve hanging out at one of the PCV's schools- what's a holiday without a discotek eh? And pizza and chilling for the rest of the evening- including a White Elephant where the best prize was a box of Craft Mac & Cheese and a can of Dr. Pepper legitimately brought a girl to tears of joy. Christmas morning found us- 12 people sleeping canned sardine style on the ground and very hungry. So we whipped up some french toast and scrambled eggs (2 loaves of bread, 3 dozen eggs) and of course, mimosas. Merry Christmas Ukraine! Then I was spoiled enough to spend the rest of Christmas day with one of my best PCV friends and her Ukrainian "host family." And the family, in true Ukrainian hospitality just took me under their wing same as if I had known them for years. We enjoyed a tasty meal of stewed rabbit, mashed potatoes, and salat. And the language kept switching between Ukrainian, Russian (my PCV friend learned Russian), English (the daughter also speaks English) and Surjk.

That, I guess is the definition of a cross cultural Christmas! So I wanted to thank the PCV's of Region 1 who let me crash their party, Abbs for inviting me to meet her host family and for hosting me and for being just a generally fabulous person, and for her host family for letting me into their home on this holiday. Merry Christmas everybody! I hope you enjoyed your weekend as much as I enjoyed mine!

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